You would make these wide enough so there won’t be any wood showing on the sides after the tsukamaki (start about 1/4″-3/8″ from edges) and deep enough so the skin sits flush with the rest of the surface (about 1- 1 1/2mm). With your utility blade, very carefully score the inner outline. Don’t remove too much where you’re too close to the nakago but you can always build up the size later on. Once you’ve scored the lines you will begin carving the channels. First fold the rice paper, I prefer about 10 times for this thin paper. You would make these wide enough so there won’t be any wood showing on the sides after the tsukamaki (start about 1/4″-3/8″ from edges) and deep enough so the skin sits flush with the rest of the surface (about 1- 1 1/2mm). Make sure you have good lighting so you can see even subtle adjustments that need to be made. Start taking off a little wood from both sides and both ends but go slowly. I refined the tip with a bull nose edge and bent the shaft at around a 30 degree angle to make carving a flat board easier on my knuckles. Take your time aligning the nakago on the board and take note of the flow from the saya because when possible, you want this flow of shape and angle to continue into the tsuka. Once you’re satisfied, slide it back on the nakago with the fittings and make sure everything fits nice and snug. Once the mekugi-ana is shaped and finished, you should measure for the placement of the kashira. Don’t use glue that expands as this can seep into the channel and don’t use white craft glue because it’s just not strong enough for this application. See more ideas about katana, samurai swords, japanese sword. Fitting the kashira will come a little later. This is much more difficult and less accurate if you try to do it after the two boards are glued together so we will do this before we glue. The purpose is to make the position of force is not at the seam, to ensure the strength of the handle. I always let it sit for a day or at least a few hours after I think I’m done and then come back to it because with fresh eyes, I usually find some spots that need a little refining. When you’re done it should look similar to this. Drilling the mekugi holes using a hand powered post drill. Once its all secured you can grab the katana on the padding and start hammering on the top of the koshirae-nuki. For about a dollar you could also pick up a non stretching fabric tape ruler in most craft stores. So from your elbow to your wrist; this distance is how long the tsuka should also be. The saya should fit snugly on the habaki, with most pressure to the top and bottom, and should hold the blade securely without rattling or jamming. Make sure your chisels are honed and very sharp and free of burrs so it will remove the material easily and smoothly. Let’s face it, we don’t always want to spend more on having a new tsuka made than we did for the entire sword itself and you also might not have time to apprentice in Japan for 10 years to learn the traditional way, so here is a way for us regular Joe backyard cutters to give our beloved workhorse sharpies a new set of duds :lol: Method 1 – The Forearm Formula. Once this is done you can fit the kashira, including cutting out the slot where the ito will pass through, and then go back to refining the shape of the core. tsuka may have to be altered, or a different weight ito may have to be selected in order to fit within an odd number of spaces. Remember to make sure you’ve removed enough material by using pieces of the samegawa and ito you will be using to check. I feel it’s worth saying again so….constantly check your fit. Don’t worry if you wind up removing a little too much, we can fix that later on by applying some veneer but still try to avoid this. Marking and More Cutting. Now that your fuchi fits snugly you can begin removing material from the length of the core. Simply record the distance from the edge of the boards to the edges of the channel and apply them to the other side then place the nakago within the guide marks and trace the shape. Phone: 086 13739276006 Using the drill press again, with a 3/8 bit, I created the holes thru which the sageo can pass. I also give a little extra room for the paper strips I use prior to tsukamaki. Try to choose boards that are as flat as possible. Chisels – I use a decorative wood carving, flat head chisel that I’ve slightly modified for most of the preliminary channel carving. When choosing a wood type for this application you generally want to look for a tight and straight grain pattern as well as low acidity, moderately heavy, moderately low in shrinkage, moderately low in bending and compressive strength, moderately hard and stiff, and moderately high in shock resistance. Remove the appropriate amount (again, take it slow and remove a little less than you should, check the fit, and then remove the rest little by little with a file or sandpaper) and with the fittings in place, fit the core onto the nakago and proceed to finish shaping the mekugi-ana. 8. You can add some wood veneer shims before the boards are glued, which will be every bit as good as the original wood and is commonly used to adjust fit. Over the years I’ve pieced together notes and techniques gathered from different sources and eventually became comfortable with the blended method I will be detailing here. Over time this fit will loosen and you want some extra room for tightening, this is also why we’ve added a little room at the bottom of the nakago channel. This step is very important! To do this you’ll just need a simple measuring tool. Too often people wind up with a finished tsuka that is too fat and the ito is sitting higher than the rims of the fuchi and kashira or they will almost be round because they are too beefy. #1: Malant` on 12 years ago Hi im hear to try and teach you how to wrap a tsuka succesfully! I have illustrated the hard to see grain lines in this example. Jun 21, 2017 - Explore Norman Andrew's board "Tsuka" on Pinterest. Ruler/Calipers – A pair of calipers can come in very handy and are available for as little as $5 but a ruler or tape measure will suffice. Good luck on your project. Very carefully clip the strand as close to the folds as possible making … I also give a little extra room for the paper strips I use prior to tsukamaki. Once the two halves are fully set, remove the clamps and proceed by cutting off excess material using band saw or hand saw. Before you start shaping the core you need to know where the nakago lies so you don’t get too close to the edges. Always remove less than you think you need to and check your progress often by placing the nakago on the board because while you can always remove more material, it’s much harder to replace it. At this point you will be sizing the core for the additional thickness of the tsuba, etc. If you will be using samegawa, whether full wrap or panels, remember to allow for the thickness of the skin and remove the appropriate amount of material. Matching the front of the tsuka to the fuchi. I want to first make clear that this is not a traditional method nor how I would construct a tsuka core for an antique restoration necessarily, but rather a method I use for the typical modern made production blade. And one that does not produce sap. I typically use a coping saw or a small electric jigsaw. Pronunciation of Tsuka with 1 audio pronunciation, 1 meaning, 4 translations and more for Tsuka. How to Pick The Best Katana Handle Length. Once the habaki is made, it is time to create a handle for the blade.Before starting to carve the wood core, any additional hardware such as seppa (washer), tsuba (handguard), fuchi (ferrule), or kashira (pommel) are prepared. You might want to make a paper template of the nakago shape which you can use to re-apply the outlines later on once you’ve started filing and sanding the core. I have a small rectangular strip of samegawa of moderate thickness that I use to wrap around the collar and and a thicker piece at the butt end of the core and I then wrap a piece of ito over this to see if it aligns where it should. What is the best size for the “tsuka” handle? Once the mekugi-ana is shaped and finished, you should measure for the placement of the kashira. I am a bit of a hardware store junkie and I have a problem with all the variety offered in the large stores so I’ve probably tried almost every wood glue available in the US and at least one imported from Australia. Go slowly using a round needle file and constantly test the fit of the mekugi. until the area is built up enough for a tight fit. If you’ve removed a little too much from the parts under the kashira or fuchi you can glue small strips of a thin wood veneer such as this. I typically use a coping saw or a small electric jigsaw. Wipe up any misplaced glue right away with a damp cloth. Basically, anything that will maintain even pressure on the boards while the glue is drying. Now do the same thing on the other board using the opposite side of the nakago. I try to get 3/8″ thick by 3-4″ wide by 12-24″ long boards when possible but most of the time 1/2″ thick is all that is available locally. The bottom of the hole in the core should be just about a millimeter lower than the bottom of the hole in the nakago because you want there to be a little pressure pulling the nakago into the core when you insert the mekugi in. (I forgot to trace this on the first board initially but added it later on) Email: sales@hanbonforge.com First, the wood is split and carved to receive the tang. For typical 10mm silk ito the ramp on the omote side will be approximately 17-19mm long depending on how tightly the ito is wrapped or just about two increments up from the kashira rim. I always let it sit for a day or at least a few hours after I think I’m done and then come back to it because with fresh eyes, I usually find some spots that need a little refining. So plan accordingly ;) On the ura side you will start the ramp a little higher up at around 20-22mm from the kashira rim or approximately two and three quarters increments up from the kashira as this will be where the top of the knot will fall. Don’t worry if you wind up removing a little too much, we can fix that later on by applying some veneer but still try to avoid this. The length and depth of these ramps are determined by factors such as the type of ito you are using and the style of the kashira, as well as the thickness of the samegawa. The time needed for this project, excluding drying time, will be anywhere from 2 hours for those rushing and satisfied with “eh, it’s good enough” to about 6 + hours for OCD perfectionists that just don’t know when to quit :oops: (I’ve taken more than 30 minutes just picking out the boards sometimes, lol) I also use my cordless drill often but if you have a mounted drill press, that might be best option for you. Want a unique sword? Tsuka cores should be relatively thin and flat on the sides while having nice slender oval edges. Remember to make sure you’ve removed enough material by using pieces of the samegawa and ito you will be using to check. It doesn’t have to be anything fancy like a Japanese made kiridashi, I just use a standard razor and a sharp, all around utility. It is important to check the tsuba on the tang every so often so you don't make the hole too large, causing slippage. With a pair of calipers or ruler, determine the accumulated thickness of those pieces, making sure to include the thickness of the top piece of your fuchi (usually about a millimeter) and then transfer this measurement to the top of the core. I look for one that dries very quickly but allows you enough time to position, is tough as nails, and takes heavy impact well. (I forgot to trace this on the first board initially but added it later on). It is not that I have done something wrong. File the shape of the handle with a file. One side of the core will be carved deeper than the other because the nakago should be sitting on solid wood rather than the middle of the seam. Be the … I also run my fingers along all sides because they can pick up what my eyes might miss. See more ideas about katana, japanese sword, samurai swords. Other wood species that are suitable besides Japanese Honoki are Magnolia, Alder, Ash, and Beech. If you are placing the emperor’s node in the first open diamond from the kashira, you want the ramp to start just after that node. When this is finished and the result is satisfying, I will make the tsuba, tsuka … The wood on the outside of Japanese sword tang is called the tsuka, which is used for encircling the blade tang, allowing people to carry the sword conveniently, and it is also a part of samurai sword mountings. Another important factor is price and I find that on average, enough good quality kiln dried Poplar for an average length tsuka runs around $3-$4. 7. With your utility blade, very carefully score the inner outline. The fuchi will actually be what determines the final dimensions of the tsuka. The score … Let’s take a closer look. Really, any good wood glue should be fine. Basically, anything that will maintain even pressure on the boards while the glue is drying. Good luck on your project. You can use carbon paper between the nakago and the channel to see where the high spots are or sometimes I wet the nakago and use some crushed charcoal powder for this. Four famous swords that really exist in Chinese history, Miao Dao's knowledge and training methods, New custom-made katanas for US buyer David and Tammy Lumb, Colored Blades Katana Sword - Electroplating. This is the widt of contracted silk and cotton ito. Make sure that the tsuka-ito is wrapped alternately at the overlapping folds. If you need to widen the channel, you can use a metal straight edge and your utility knife to carefully cut the edges. This method involves using the length of your forearm to get an idea of how long the tsuka should be. until the area is built up enough for a tight fit. I've made a template for standard silk ito widt of 8mm. Check out our guide to basic tsukamaki here. www.hanbonforge.com/CUSTOM-SWORDS/Custom-Your-Own-Swords. Your final shape will depend on what style you’re going for such as morozori, rikko, hiachi, or other, but despite the style there should be enough room for samegawa or ito or shims… or all of the above. The start of a series. Standard wood files, some 120 and 220 grit paper and a sanding block is all you need really. the tang is being held by one or two … 364. It is important that the grain structure flows out from the ha to the mune and away from the center because in short, the force of impact could possibly crack the core if the grain flows the opposite direction. Later on in the process you will be properly sizing the mekugi-ana but for now you just need a small pilot hole so you can locate it later when the boards are glued together. Remember to retrace your nakago shape or otherwise indicate it’s location while you’re removing material and erasing the outlines. Place a little bit of glue very carefully under where this pinched portion will be. I also use a few different sizes of standard wood chisels that you can get at any hardware store. Glue – Last but not least, a good quality wood glue. Keep going and constantly check the fit until the nakago slides in and out of the carved slot freely but without any play.
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